The Dalai Lama on the Kalachakra throne during the teachings

Even from outside I can hear the Dalai Lama’s voice amplified through the loudspeakers placed on every street corner. Foreigners can tune in with their radios and listen to the translations in many different languages.

Since my arrival a week ago, the number of pilgrims must have tripled to around 100,000. Festively dressed Tibetans, monks, nuns, from all over Asia, Westerners and local Indians all wait to be checked by the police. Everybody is in motion and not even the long queues that build up in front of the gates to the teaching site can diminish the excitement in the air.